Changing your own golf grips isn't a pro-shop-only job. With about $30 to $50 in supplies and an hour of patience, you can regrip a full set at your kitchen counter. It's the same maintenance mindset we push at Takomo: skip the markup where it doesn't buy you anything, and put the money into gear that actually matters. Here's exactly how to change golf grips, start to finish.
What You'll Need
Tools
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Hook blade or utility knife
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Rubber vise clamp
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Bench vise or C-clamp to secure the clamp to a surface
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Clean rags or paper towels
Materials
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New grips
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Double-sided grip tape (2-inch width)
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Grip solvent, or mineral spirits as a widely used substitute (see below)
A full grip kit runs $30 to $50 and covers multiple regrips, since tape and solvent go a long way. A full set of new grips costs more on top of that.
Grip sizing: Grips come in standard, midsize, and jumbo. Standard fits most golfers. Midsize and jumbo suit larger hands or golfers managing arthritis, since a thicker grip reduces how hard you need to squeeze. Your glove size is a reasonable starting proxy: a medium glove usually points to a standard grip, a large glove to midsize.
How to Change Golf Grips: Step-by-Step
1. Secure the club. Clamp the rubber vise clamp around the shaft, 6–8 inches above the hosel, then lock it into a bench vise or clamp it to a countertop edge. On graphite shafts, tighten just enough to stop rotation. Graphite is more fragile than steel and can crack under heavy clamping pressure.
2. Cut and remove the old grip. Slide the hook blade under the open end of the grip and run it in a straight line toward the hosel, cutting through the grip, not the shaft. Peel it off. On graphite shafts, use slow, light passes. A nicked shaft can be structurally weakened.
3. Strip the old tape. Scrape off old tape with the flat edge of the blade, then wipe any leftover residue with a solvent-dampened rag. Run your fingers along the shaft. It needs to feel completely smooth before you tape it again.
4. Apply new double-sided tape. Wrap the tape in a tight spiral down the shaft, covering the full length the grip will sit on. No gaps, no overlapping edges. Leave about an inch hanging off the open end and fold it into the shaft opening to seal it.
5. Apply the solvent. Block the vent hole at the top of the new grip with your finger, pour solvent into the open end to coat the inside, then pour the rest over the taped shaft. Have the grip ready to go before you start. Solvent evaporates in 30–60 seconds.
6. Slide the grip on. Push the grip onto the shaft in one continuous motion. Stopping partway lets friction build and bunches the tape underneath, which shows up as a lump later.
7. Check alignment before it sets. You've got roughly 30–60 seconds to rotate the grip before the solvent locks it. Hold the golf club at address and look down the shaft. The grip cap should be square to the face.
8. Let it cure. Lay the club flat for at least 30 minutes, ideally overnight, before hitting balls. Solvent needs time to fully set, and gravity can shift a grip that's still curing.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
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Leaving old tape residue behind. It creates ridges you'll feel through the new grip.
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Using too little solvent. A dry surface causes tearing or a grip that won't fully seat.
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Pausing mid-slide. Every stop creates a friction point and a bump in the finished grip.
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Skipping the alignment check. Thirty seconds now saves a full reinstall later.
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Playing too soon. An uncured grip can twist under swing forces.
No Vise? You Can Still Do This
A bench vise makes the job easier, but it's not a hard requirement:
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C-clamp to a countertop. Attach the rubber clamp to a counter or workbench edge with a C-clamp. Pad the edge with a towel to protect the surface.
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Door jamb and towel. Wedge a rolled towel into a door jamb at waist height and press the shaft into it. Works for steel; less reliable for graphite.
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Two-person method. One person holds the club steady while the other handles the grip. A good option if you're not yet confident working one-handed.
When It's Time to Regrip
Most golfers who play regularly should regrip about once a year, or after roughly 40 rounds, whichever comes first, per NCG's own guidance. Playing conditions, climate, and how much you practice can shift that timeline.
The physical test: grip the club with normal pressure. If you can feel the tape ridges underneath, or the surface stays slick even after cleaning, it's time.
Grips Are the Easy Fix. What About the Rest of the Bag?
Fresh grips restore feel fast, and now you know how to do it yourself for the cost of tape and solvent. But grip wear is often just the most visible sign that it's been a while since you looked at your setup as a whole. If you're not sure whether your irons still fit your game, our Fitting Tool takes four minutes and gives you a straight answer, no pressure to buy anything.
FAQs about Changing Golf Grips
How long does it take to change golf grips?
Expect 10–20 minutes per club as a first-timer, faster once you've done a few. A full set of 13–14 clubs runs roughly 2–3 hours, plus cure time.
Can I use WD-40 when cleaning grips?
No. It's a lubricant, not a solvent, and it leaves an oily residue that prevents the grip from bonding properly and can degrade the grip material over time. Mild soap and water is the safer call for cleaning grips.
Can I regrip without dedicated grip solvent?
Yes. Mineral spirits from a hardware store are a commonly used, cheaper substitute for grip solvent and work the same way.
What if I want to save on labor costs?
Pro shops typically charge around $3–6 per club for labor, on top of the grips themselves. Doing it yourself mainly saves on that labor line, not on the grips.
